Where the Desert Meets the Sea: Environmental Education on Espíritu Santo Island

This place is a piece of desert stranded in the sea. A cluster of two large islands connected at low tide by a strip of land and multiple islets where cacti meet the ocean. It’s a place where the wind can be relentless, surrounded by a fascinating landscape.

This is the Espíritu Santo Archipelago National Park, also known as Espíritu Santo Island, where Ecology Project International (EPI) has worked for 19 years on environmental education projects with high school students, both local and international.

Why the island? Perhaps the question should be: why not? For someone like me, from Costa Rica, where deserts don’t exist, this is a surreal place. It’s hard to grasp how a location completely surrounded by water can also be so arid.

The island is located in the Gulf of California, between the mainland and the Baja California peninsula, the driest region of Mexico. This year, which is coming to an end, not a single drop of rain has fallen. And yet, the biodiversity here is astounding.

The archipelago hosts diverse habitats such as mangroves, beaches, rocky reefs, estuaries, and rhodolith beds (algae). Being islands, their endemism is high, with at least 54 unique plant species and three endemic mammals, including the elusive babisuri, which gave us a challenge during the nights (I’ll tell you more about them soon).

One of the island’s main attractions is the sea lions. Here, you have the chance to swim among them, close enough that, if you’re lucky, they might playfully nibble your fins.

The Fight to Protect a Natural Treasure

The island wasn’t always a protected place. In 1972, the government handed it over to the Alfredo Bonfil ejido, a fishing community under a collective land tenure system. In 1992, a legal reform allowed the privatization of ejido lands, and the ejido divided and put 90 hectares of the island up for sale. This sparked a conflict between development and conservation interests.

“It’s an area for which many organizations in La Paz fought hard to turn into a protected natural area because there were plans for numerous marinas and resorts. There was also a plan to connect the island to the mainland, which, well, if we understand a bit about ecology, such projects aren’t healthy for the island’s biodiversity,” explains Joel Coronado, an EPI instructor.

Thanks to the efforts of civil society, the island’s first management plan was created in 1998, a result of collaboration between research institutions, NGOs, and the Bonfil ejido. In 2003, the island was completely handed over to the National Commission of Protected Natural Areas (CONANP) for conservation, and in 2005, it was recognized by UNESCO as a Natural World Heritage Site.

“EPI started here in Mexico 19 years ago with an island course. Part of the idea was to promote Espíritu Santo Island as a natural reserve, a protected area, and showcase the area’s richness and biodiversity,” says Coronado.

A local EPI course on Espiritu Santo Island. November 2024

“The first thing we do with local students is show them the abundance we have, especially marine, though also terrestrial. We focus much more on the sea. So, the first thing is showing them the richness of the ocean,” the instructor adds.

Living Environmental Education on the Island

Observing thousands of stars in a sky free of light pollution while listening to the repetitive mantra of the sea intertwined with ancient stories of gods and magical creatures on a beautiful island is undoubtedly a special moment.

This was the second night of the course for students from Cobach 03 high school in the Esterito neighborhood of La Paz, Baja California Sur, held from November 7 to 10. This school is special to EPI because it was one of the first we worked with during our pilot project 19 years ago.

Professor José Juan Fuentes, who accompanied this course, has been part of this relationship since its inception.

“I’ve known EPI Mexico since they arrived here in 2005 and chose us as a pilot school. I think this is my 14th or 15th course on the island. My first experience was here when all the teachers were invited to camp—ecology teachers, biology teachers, and natural sciences teachers. They brought us here to the camp for a day and a night,” Fuentes recalls.

The first day of this course began early, at 7:30 a.m., at EPI’s campus in La Paz, with icebreaker activities and preparing snorkeling equipment. After walking under the blazing sun to the pier on La Paz’s malecón, we embarked on a boat trip to the island. The 90-minute journey was highlighted by the fortunate sighting of dolphins.

Grace, the EPI instructor, explains to students how to apply the REEF protocol in underwater fish monitoring.

Arriving at the island means disconnecting. Without cell phone signal, the students fully immerse themselves in the environment and the experience. At noon, we set up camp in El Candelero Bay, securely fastening the tents against the “nortecillo,” a strong wind that kept us on our toes the first night.

In the afternoon, the students practiced snorkeling, from those who couldn’t swim to those already experienced. We circled a nearby islet where the shallow waters revealed an impressive diversity of fish and corals.

Back on land, it was time for reflection and recording experiences. Each student received a beautiful EPI notebook, their field journal, to document their observations. They noted everything that caught their attention, complementing their words with drawings and colors to represent the species they found and the number of individuals observed. With the help of specialized books brought by the instructors, they identified the scientific names and characteristics of each species. This exercise, blending creativity and science, is crucial for solidifying students’ learning.

During the group reflection session, many shared how they initially felt fear but quickly overcame it. For most, observing fish underwater was the day’s most fascinating experience.

Though the wind disrupted our sleep the first night, we woke up to find everything intact. The following morning, we explored the Cascada Seca trail, an 860-meter path offering spectacular sea views and an opportunity to appreciate desert ecology.

On the trail, we learned how plants obtain water—from cardones (giant cacti) that perform photosynthesis with their entire body to the remarkable zalate tree, whose roots pierce porous rock to absorb water.

At the trail’s highest point is a cave-like structure, more of a spacious vault on the mountain ridge, offering a breathtaking panoramic view. Here, a 10-minute silence exercise allowed us to connect with our surroundings—an experience that could feel either too short or eternal.

Back at camp, we shifted to the academic part of the experience, focusing on developing scientific thinking. Students learned to formulate scientific questions, identify observable phenomena, and recognize variables and quantities.

They also explored the intertidal zone—the area between the low and high tide lines on beaches. This ecosystem is home to hundreds of small creatures that thrive in an environment alternately submerged and exposed.

And at the end of that day was the blissful night of stargazing and storytelling.

Gradually, the wind subsided during our stay at El Candelero until it became almost imperceptible. That night, we finally enjoyed a peaceful sleep.

Diving into Science: Monitoring Marine Life

The third day was exciting as it was time to monitor fish. After a briefing on the citizen science protocol we follow to contribute data to Reef.org, we headed by boat to Monumento Islet for the underwater monitoring session.

The experience is intense. Writing underwater while breathing through a snorkel and keeping water out of your mask is challenging. Some students lost their slates or sheets, but fortunately, they were recovered.

Back on land, students documented their observations in their field journals, noting the common and scientific names and the number of individuals of each species.

The purpose of this exercise is “to teach students how to identify different fish species and engage in citizen science, which is what Reef focuses on. We want them to identify fish and note the relative abundance of those species, meaning they record how many of each species they saw,” explains instructor Joel.

“We use this protocol to teach students how to conduct citizen science. Then, we also introduce them to scientific protocols. The idea is for them to learn to use science as a tool to solve local issues. They design their own projects, asking questions, identifying problems, and using scientific tools to answer those questions,” adds Coronado.

Each course includes small student projects developed on-site. They start with a research question based on observations made there. If time permits, they collect data and draw conclusions.

Some of the research questions posed by students included:

• Is there a difference in the population of pufferfish between the southern and northern parts of the islet in El Candelero Bay?

• Crab population differences in the intertidal pools of southern and northern El Candelero beach.

• Types of plants on the trail: Differences between trail plants and those on the southern beach of El Candelero.

• Are there more cardones in a 50-meter transect on the southern hill, northern hill, or trail?

Getting to know the fauna of the intertidal zone

Though there wasn’t enough time to fully develop these projects, the process of formulating these questions offered a valuable opportunity for reflection and learning.

After a night full of babisuris' (ring-tailed cats) antics in the camp, the last day on the island arrived.

Babisuris, also known as cacomixtles (Bassariscus astutus), are small raccoon-like mammals with long ringed tails and cute little faces. From the first day they began to approach the camp, but shyly at first. However, as the days went by, they became more brazen, to the point of stealing things from the kitchen or invading the tents. So, while the wind prevented us from sleeping during the first night, on the last night it was the babisuris who stole the sleep of some in the camp.

A babisuri caught red-handed

A Memorable Farewell: Swimming with Sea Lions

On the last morning of our stay, we were privileged to enjoy an unforgettable experience: swimming with sea lions at their islet, located in the northern part of the archipelago.

We had to travel by boat, as the islet is several miles away. Upon arrival, the boat swayed in the waves as our guides explained the animals’ ecology and provided safety instructions before entering the water.

Although these animals might seem intimidating at first, they are mostly social and even playful. Here, they are accustomed to human presence. We were fortunate to arrive first, allowing us to explore in peace. Shortly after, other boats and tourists began to arrive, even some scuba divers.

Following this exhilarating experience, it was time to dismantle the camp and return to the mainland. Time had flown by, yet it felt as though it had stretched to accommodate all our adventures. Nostalgia filled the air as we boarded the boat, marking the end of our journey.

Beyond the Classroom: Connecting with Nature

I asked Professor José Juan about the educational value of taking students to the island, and he shared:

“Here, we reinforce what we cover in class. In the classroom, we learn how ecosystems work. And here, they see it in action. They saw it with the plants, the fish, the temperature, and the wind. You learn more in the field than in a classroom. What we can teach in five days in the field is equivalent to an entire semester in the classroom.”

Cobach 03 group. November 2024

But the courses hold not only academic value—they also have a significant social impact.

The professor explained, “This school is in Esterito, the most marginalized area. The students here are the most underprivileged compared to others in La Paz. Many have never left their neighborhoods due to their economic or social situations, and this is a great opportunity for them. Seeing this inspires them and gives them the motivation to keep studying.”

Professor José Juan has a unique method for selecting students to bring to the island. Half the group comprises the most diligent students, while the other half consists of those who are struggling academically or behaviorally—a seemingly unconventional approach.

“Let me share one case: there was a student who was caught in a cycle of drug use, almost lost to overdoses. People questioned my decision to take him to the island. But it impacted him so much that he turned his life around, staying away from drugs,” the professor recounted emotionally.

Tamara, two-time participant of the island course

One inspiring example from this group is Tamara Hernández, who joined the island course for the second time. She shared:

“I decided to come back because my first experience was amazing. It was inspiring and even shaped my future. That first course helped guide me toward my career path, which is marine biology.”

“Since last year, I’d been unsure of what to study. But when I joined EPI’s course, I thought, wow, this is what I love. It wasn’t just the fun of being on the beach and seeing fish but marveling at finding them in a book. And yes, it’s something I want to pursue,” Tamara added.

The Lasting Impact of EPI

On November 4, EPI celebrated 19 years of work in La Paz—nearly two decades of connecting local people with the ecosystems that surround them. Over this time, Espíritu Santo Island has been a cornerstone of their impact in the region.

“I think if you want to change a society, you need to start with young people. Over these 19 years, EPI has touched many hearts, changed many lives, and shifted perspectives. Most importantly, it has introduced this treasure, Espíritu Santo Island, to many locals,” concludes instructor Joel.

This Island is a treasure. While many visit it as part of a tourist tour, experiencing it through the lens of environmental education and a love for the land is an entirely different journey.

If you would like to experience something like this, I hope these words from Victoria, a student, will convince you:

"I don't regret taking the opportunity and ignoring that little voice that said no, don't go, you're afraid of the sea. I ignored it and took the plunge. So I would definitely tell you to go, it will change your life. And you will learn a lot about the island, about the animals that live here, like the babisuri, their own plants, their own birds. It really is a very, very good experience, for you, for your personal growth".

If you’re a teacher or student eager to experience something transformative like this on Espíritu Santo Island, we invite you to learn more and participate by visiting our website. Don’t miss the opportunity to connect with nature and knowledge in a unique way!

Thank you Morgan Iltis for such beautiful photos!